Our first taste of the Canadian Wilderness came with a tamp in Kananaski Country, known to locals simply as K Country. About an hour out of Canmore in the heart of the most twisted rugged hills you could imagine. Being right on the continental divide between the Pacific and North American plates, the Rockies used to be the sea floor but over the sons have been thrust up to form the most breath taking mountains. The swirling rock high above looking as if someone had run their fingers through wet clay.
Our walk to start in a most dignified of manners; tea and scroggin. We sat atop the dam that marked the border between Upper and Lower Lake.
Having satisfied our warm beverage needs we packed up and set off. The first section of the walk took us up and around the lake shore. This provided almost unimpeded views of the dark water contrasting against the pale mountains, with the last remaining dregs of snow atop. Scarcely 1km into our tramp and we came across a sign marking a permanent track closure. This is prime Grizzly territory the sign read, and therefore the old track has been closed. Luckily for us we were heading the other way, although that didn't lessen the fact that we were deep in bear country. So on we carried with bells a belling, and bear spray at our sides, holstered like the Old West. Bear Spray is much like Batman's Shark Repellent Spray, but for Bears!
The track soon took us up and slightly away from the waters edge. We were nearing the 'Bolder Fields' that Dad was getting very excited for. Suddenly after a quick steep climb we came out onto a massive track of land, barren and seemingly devoid of life, the remains of a once gigantic landslide. Half the mountain above we now strewn carelessly across our path, like an angry todlers tipped Lego box.
We carried on until we reached the summit of our trail - a good place to stop for a photo-op. And while we were at it, it would have been rude not to get out the scroggin!
The day was hot by this stage, and the smoke has dissipated enough to really get a clear view of the surrounding peaks. Above us was Mt. Indefatigable, a giant slab of slanting rock that was hard to grasp how high it actually stood. Using the aproximate height of the trees at the bottom then roughly counting up with one eye closed to gage how many trees high before calculating how many metres the trees equalled we estimated the vertical face must be at least... Very tall.
Another half an hour of walking, this time downhill led us to the back country campsite. Empty. But good for us, we enjoyed a peaceful sit by the water. Amongst dozens of long dead tree stumps, the grey stones and pale mountains reflected coldly on the still water. We were in a scene from Middle Earth.
Our final push was up to a small waterfall on that stream that fills the lake. The rushing sound of the frigid water made hearing imminent bear attacks difficult, so we only stuck around long enough to take in the spectacle and capture it on film.
The walk back to out picnic lunch was a peaceful as the walk in. We took the high track this time which provided a better view and lots of wild raspberries to munch on. Again, this made us quite wary of bears. Alas we arrived back to the carpark having spotted nothing bigger than a Fat Columbian Ground Squirrel.
On the drive back after lunch however, we saw something slightly bitter than a Fat Columbian Ground Squirrel. As we rounded a corner, high on the bank to our right was a Grizzly Bear. Seemingly minding his own business and not really caring about us driving past. We pulled a U-y a little down the road and slowly drove back past. This time though, with the additional of a few more cars he became spooked and ducked into the shrubbery. So back we turned, happy to have seen one, but disappointed it was only a fleeting glimpse. But then, as we slowly crept along the road, the lumbering beast sauntered down from the bank, and crossed the tarmac a mere 20m from our car. Apparently there were better berry bushed on the other side that he couldn't resist. So we sat and watched Marvin (kudos to Laura for the great naming reference, and kudos to those who get it) munching on his berries until we remembered that stopping the car like this causes 'Bear-Jams' (real thing).
We headed back to Canmore happy with our encounter, and happy having spent a day in the mountains.
Labels: Canada 2017
