Day two arrived, and we had an inkling that the weather wasn't going to be completely 'postcard'. As we ate our breakfast of fresh fruit, tea, and some sort of local pastry, in this case a delicious yogurt cake, it became apparent that today might be the best day to visit Valletta.
Valetta, gonna getcha
Jumping in the car, and with Laura doing a spectacular job at navigating with our crappy and confusing map, we made our way south. When it came time to booking this trip we read in the guide book that renting a car isn't necessarily the best idea. The guide book claimed that this was because of the local drivers. And I can see what they were getting at. Usually the idea of 'island-time' means a slow going, relaxed, almost lazy feel. Not on this island! According to the drivers the aim is to go as fast as you can, beat everyone else there, and totally disregard all other drivers and road rules. Luckily for me I grew up learning to drive in Auckland, and have spent time behind the wheel in places like Los Angeles. So, whilst remaining super vigilant, Malta wasn't too difficult.
The whole island being only about 30km long, it was a quick drive down to the capital. Now Laura has already mentioned the state of parking in Malta, and the city was no exception. Just find anywhere you can fit really. Although this time there was no little man to take our 'donation'. We parked right outside the city's outer wall and made out way in.
When we crossed the huge, deep moat that signified the inner city it was apparent that Valletta is getting a makeover. There is supposed to be an amazing fountain out the front of the main gate, but this was blocked but masses of scaffolding. So too was the main gate itself. And stepping through to the other side we were struck by a strange combination of Old Europe, and New Metropolis with architectural styles differing by centuries. As we wandered around the top section I suddenly realised this must be because Valletta is essentially made of sandstone, and sandstone is a relatively temporary building material. The old stone was being replace with new stone, which gave the strange impression that we had travelled back in time to when the original stones were laid down. It's not often you get to see a centuries old European plaza band-spanking new!
The rest of the city however maintained the aged feel that you come to expect from a city like this. Our first stop, after the obligatory info-centre-map-find, ATM withdrawal, and bladder emptying, was St. Johns Co Cathedral in the heart of town.
Being a super catholic country we had to cover up, so Laura pulled out a pair of hippie pants and tried her best to make them look like a shawl. She wasn't fooling anyone. When you first step into the church you a greeted by a massive Grim Reaper staring up at you from the floor. This motif continues throughout the rest of the building as you walk atop the graves of 400 knights, reminding you that death is inevitable, and it will happen to everyone. memento mori.
Don't forget... he's coming!
The interior is as lavish as you would expect, and coming off the main chapel are smaller chapels each dedicated to a different language. The roof of the main structure depicted the life and death of St. John across it's huge spanning panels. But most impressive (and almost missed by us as they seem to downplay it) was the huge Caravaggio's The Beheading Of St. John The Baptisttucked away in a side room! It was one of the single most impressive paintings I have ever seen. Laura thought there was a spotlight illuminating the main subject, before I explained that this was just the incredible chiaroscuro technique.
St. Me and St. John
By the time we emerged back into the heat of the day it was just about time to hunt out some food. I had noticed 'Old Bakery Street' on the map and that felt like a good place to start.
As we wandered the amazing and narrow streets the cloud began to burn off and it was the perfect time to head down to the waterfront to eat.
Lunch time in a new place means trying new things. Laura and I got between us a qassatat, which is a local pasty 'bag' stuffed with cheese, peas and spinach, and a tuna sandwich on Maltese bread. And to wash it down I got a kinne, the Maltese equivalent of L&P (World Famous In Malta). It was a biter orange fizzy drink with herbs (which I just looked up now and turns out it's wormwood extract!). Laura hated it, but I liked it, enough to get several other bottle during our stay...
Look at the hungry Laura
Lunch was eaten atop the high outer wall overlooking the harbour and people watching. Taking in the quiet an very pleasant atmosphere. Malta was quickly becoming a destination that I wanted to come back to and spend as much time as possible. Like Sweden and New York, I could see myself living there, and if someone offered me a job tomorrow I would be hard pressed to turn it down.
And the thirsty me
We spent the next hour or so wandered the south perimeter of the city wall. Past old military installation, down the the waterfront that once docked huge warships. Past the couples and friends and locals all enjoying the sun. But soon that sun began to take its toll. It didn't help that everything is made of light coloured sandstone that reflected the heat back at you from all sides.
The original plan was to take a ferry to the Three Cities, but the sweet patch on my back was telling us it was time to pack it in and head for somewhere to swim.
One of the beaches to tick off the list was Għajn Tuffieħa Bay (which means little tomato I think!). This was an awesome little beach with an old abandoned building looming over it from the northern cliff face. The cafe at the top provided much needed ice cream, and this made for a relaxing afternoon.
For dinner that night we drove to St Paul's Bay and found an amazing little beach front restaurant that has been family owned since the 1960's. We ate local seafood dished, drank local beer, and watched the blazing sun dip below the horizon of the Mediterranean. Seriously, I would move to Malta tomorrow...
